by Pete and Kari Hazen, Rancho Roble Vineyards
This August we had the opportunity to enjoy a trip of a lifetime, traveling through European wine regions along the Rhine and Moselle rivers, ending with a daylong visit to the Champagne region, northeast of Paris near the city of Reims.
The Champagne region in France, renowned for its sparkling wine, uniquely branded after World War I as “Champagne”, was like taking a trip back in time. The rich history of this region is intertwined with its winemaking tradition.
The Champagne Region
The unique terroir of Champagne, characterized by chalky soils, cool climate, and rolling hills, is ideal for growing grapes like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, which are the main grapes used in Champagne.
The Champagne region has a long viticultural history, with vineyards dating back to the Roman era. The region became particularly famous in the 17th century when the method for making sparkling wine was perfected. It was so stunningly beautiful with vineyards in every direction and champagne houses that cultivate a unique culture for its proud citizens and guests.
The Art of Creating Champagne
We learned about the unique steps in the process of creating Champagne.
Following the harvest and primary fermentation that creates a still wine, a second fermentation occurs in the bottle.
The wine is bottled with a precise measurement of yeast and sugar (using a temporary bottle cap, which looks like a Coke bottle cap), initiating a second fermentation in the bottle, which produces carbon dioxide and creates bubbles.
Then a process called Riddling occurs where the bottles are gradually tilted and rotated during the aging stage to move the lees (dead yeast) to the neck of the bottle. Think of the lees as the lint in your dryer. You need a way to take it out.
With champagne, the lees are ultimately removed through a process called Disgorgement by freezing the bottle neck and popping out the frozen sediment. We were told Veuve Clicquot helped create this process as prior to freezing the bottle neck, the lees were manually discharged.
Once the Champagne is clean from any lees, a minute mixture of wine and sugar is added to adjust sweetness, (this is where more of the “art” occurs) and the bottle is corked and sealed.
The final step is to continue to riddle the champagne bottles. At Tattinger, more than one million bottles are riddled in a few weeks by three employees. Can you imagine turning all of those champagne bottles by hand?
After seeing the care and process that goes into creating champagne, we have a better understanding of the labor that is applied to each and every bottle. When we look at the price tag of a good bottle of champagne, we now can honor those fruits of labor that created this masterpiece.
Exploring the Champagne Houses
Wineries in the Champagne region are referred to as Champagne Houses. Champagne has been associated with celebration and luxury since the 18th century, and was often served at royal courts and used to mark special occasions.
We had the opportunity to spend extended time at two Champagne houses--Dom Caudron and Tattinger.
Dom Caudron
Dom Caudron is a Champagne house located in the village of Passy-Grigny in the heart of the Marne Valley, France. It was a smaller house with a wonderful family feel. Founded in 1929 by the visionary priest Aimé Caudron, it is known for its dedication to the Pinot Meunier grape, which is a signature of the Marne Valley.
Dom Caudron combines traditional Champagne-making techniques with modern innovations, producing a range of Champagnes that highlight the distinct character of Pinot Meunier. The house offered a glimpse into the winemaking process, with a video presentation and guided tour of their pressing center, and cellars.
One of our favorite parts of the Dom Caudron was listening to how the entire town comes together to harvest the grapes. Our tour guide shared that about 70,000 people in the Champagne region harvest grapes together. She also shared that each year, all of the Champagne region is given a specific ten-day period to pick their grapes, a requirement set by French authorities. The champagne industry is highly regulated as the French want to ensure each bottle of champagne adheres to the highest "champagne" standards in the world.
Taittinger
Taittinger is a prestigious Champagne house based in Reims, France, renowned for its elegant and refined Champagnes. Founded in 1734, the house is known for its high proportion of Chardonnay in its blends, which contributes to the finesse and longevity of its wines. Taittinger’s flagship cuvée, Comtes de Champagne, is a celebrated blanc de blancs made entirely from Chardonnay grapes.
The house’s extensive cellars, located in the historic Gallo-Roman chalk caves beneath Reims, provide the perfect environment for aging their Champagnes. We toured the underground caves and saw where each individual bottle is stacked and riddled by hand. WOW! This was the highlight of our tour. Literally, there were one million bottles of champagne in the caves. We saw 15 year old reserve bottles and were in awe of our tour guide, Maelle, which we later found out this was her first day on the job.
Taittinger remains one of the few family-owned and operated Champagne houses, maintaining a reputation of quality and tradition. And, did you know the Tattinger family also owns the famous Domaine Carneros winery in Napa, blending French tradition with our California terroir?
Bringing Champagne’s History to Life
The history of France’s Champagne region really came to life for me as I read the novel The Winemaker's Wife, by Kristin Harmel. This historical novel is set in the Champagne region during World War II. The story intertwines the lives of several characters connected to a Champagne house, exploring themes of love, betrayal, and resilience.
The novel shares the impact of World War II on the Champagne region, particularly the German occupation and how it affected the winemakers. This mirrors the real history of the region, where many Champagne houses had to navigate the challenges of war. During the German occupation, the Germans had officers who supervised the vineyard owners and champagne houses to ensure they were making the best wine possible. The German Nazi's also took the best champagne for their officers and families to share.
The book focuses on the fictional Maison Chauveau, a Champagne house that serves as the central location for the story. This reflects the real Champagne houses that are integral to the region's identity. The novel explores hidden secrets and the legacy passed down through generations, much like how the Champagne region preserves its traditions and the heritage of its winemaking families.
Just as Champagne symbolizes celebration and resilience, the characters in the novel also embody these traits, finding hope and strength in the face of adversity. At Rancho Roble Vineyards we have started a Literacy and Sips book club that meets twice a year and focuses on a book and a wine. Our first meeting is September 5, 2024 at 6pm at Rancho Roble. And, if you would like to learn more about champagne- check out the movie- "Widow Clicquot"- it is the perfect companion to a wonderful glass of wine.
Back Home in California
While we are now a world away from the champagne region, we are enjoying the vineyards of Rancho Roble Vineyards, along with a glass of the delicious champagne. Reflecting upon our visit to Reims, we are so grateful to learn and experience through other vinters who have a passion for wine like we do. It was indeed a magical journey, which we thoroughly enjoyed as we continue our lifelong learning of wine making and appreciation.
FUN FACTS
Did you know that on May 7, 1945 the Germans surrendered to the Allies in Reims, France?
Reims also has the beautiful cathedral of Norte Dame in the city's square.
There are more than 2,000 Champagne houses including well-known brands and independent wine makers in the Champagne region.
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